Shaun Tomson
born on August 21, 1955 in Durban, South Africa is a former
professional surfer, environmentalist, actor, and businessman.
He learned to surf in the beachbreaks in and around Durban under
the watchful eye of his father Ernie, and alongside older cousin
Michael Tomson. The Tomson boys went on to dominate amateur
surfing competition in South Africa and began venturing over to
Hawaii in the late 60's to ride and learn about the huge and
powerful surf there. It was on one of these trips that an
awestruck 14 year old Tomson eyewitnessed the so-called "Biggest
Wave Ever Ridden" by Californian Greg Noll at Makaha in 1969.
Hawaii's surf proved to be a daunting challenge for the
youngsters, but they continued to mature and train in South
Africa's hollow waves, such as Cave Rock, the Bay Of Plenty,
Green Point, and Jeffrey's Bay.
In 1975, Shaun and Michael were an
integral part of the "Free Ride" generation. They, along with
Australians Rabbit Bartholomew, Mark Richards, Ian Cairns, Peter
Townend, Mark Warren, and others rode the infamous waves along
Oahu's legendary North Shore with a style, aggression, and raw
courage unseen prior to their arrival. Collectively, these
surfers changed the face of surfing and were the first to really
apply themselves as serious professional surfers. With his good
looks, eloquence, and undeniable athleticism, Tomson served by
default as the face and voice of this movement, and he is still
viewed as the prototype blueprint for today's pro surfer, with
legions of fans throughout the world. Tomson won the highly
coveted IPS World Championship in 1977.
On a performance level, Tomson
completely changed the way the tube of the wave was ridden,
using a completely unique style of pumping and weaving through
and around collapsing sections of the barrel. Even today, his
electrifying performances at Off The Wall and Backdoor Pipeline
stand the test of time. A very underrated aspect of Tomson's
inventiveness was his in the tube punch throughs where he
escaped unscathed from hideous closeout sections over a shallow
reef.
Tomson currently
lives with wife Carla in Montecito, CA
and is very active as a member and spokesman with the The
Surfrider Foundation. He is also involved with his family
clothing venture, Solitude. JC Penney recently signed on as
distributor for Solitude Clothing in the US.
Tragically, the
Tomsons' son Mathew died on April 24th, 2006 in Durban, South
Africa from an accidental death caused by playing the "choking
game."
With the support of family, friends, and the global surfing
community, the Tomsons continue to push on with life, business,
and environmental interests. Tomson recently co-produced a full
length feature film about the benchmark mid-70's surfing era
called, "Bustin'
Down The Door" which premiered in early 2008.